McCarthy, Alaska and Kennecott Mines National Historic Landmark
Alaska’s Kennecott Copper Mine and nearby McCarthy, Alaska are a must see if you love history and getting a little off the beaten path. Located 80 miles from the Canadian border and an 8 hour drive from Anchorage, getting there is an adventure itself. The last 60 miles, you’ll be driving on unpaved McCarthy Road where you’ll experience potholes, washboards, single lane bridges and remnants of railroad ties as you wind through Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve with views of some of the tallest mountains in Alaska.
Kennecott or Kennicott?
Before you read any further, I need to address the elephant in the room. Why are there two different spellings?
Kennicott Glacier was named in 1899 in honor of Robert Kennicott, an American explorer and naturalist. In 1906, the Kennecott Mining Company was named after the nearby glacier but was recorded with an “ e” instead of an “i.” Some say it was intentional; others say it was a clerical error.
The easiest way to keep the two straight is to remember that the glacier and natural references use the “i” spelling and the mine and town use the “e” spelling. However, the town is sometimes spelled both Kennecott and Kennicott.
Getting to McCarthy, Alaska and Kennecott Mines National Historic Landmark
From Anchorage, drive north on Highway 1, the Glenn Highway, to Glenallen.
From Fairbanks, drive south on Highway 4, the Richardson Highway to Glenallen.
Be sure to fill your gas tank in Glenallen. There is a gas station in Kenny Lake and in Chitna but hours and availability may vary.
Continue south from Glennallen on the Richardson Highway for about 30 miles to the Edgerton Highway. The Edgerton Highway is paved and will take you the 30 miles to Chitina. Then you’ll drive 60 miles on the gravel McCarthy Road.
If you will be renting a car, know that many rental car companies do not allow their cars to be driven on McCarthy Road.
If you aren’t up for the drive, you can take a shuttle or fly to McCarthy. The National Park Service has provided information on companies that can drive or fly you to McCarthy.
As I do for any Alaskan road trip, I recommend you purchase a copy of The Milepost which provides detailed information about Alaska roads, services and attractions.
Read about the drive from Anchorage to Valdez which follows much of the same route.
Edgerton Highway and McCarthy Road
The 33-mile Edgerton Highway takes you through the farming community of Kenny Lake and ends at the town of Chitina which sprung up as a supply town when the railroad was built. Chitina marks the end of the Edgerton Highway and the beginning of McCarthy Road.
McCarthy Road has been chip sealed in some places making for a smoother ride, but the trade off are the frost heaves that can send a truck and trailer on a roller coaster ride! Driving the length of McCarthy Road takes about 3 hours since you’ll be driving about 20 miles an hour. Add in extra time if you want to stop for a picnic, take pictures, read about the road’s history on National Park Service signage at some pullouts or just soak in the beauty and history of your surroundings.
There are no services along McCarthy Road and the rough road can really beat up a vehicle. So be prepared with tools, spare tires, food, water and whatever else you might need if you get stranded.
We left our home in Wasilla in late afternoon which meant we drove well into the evening and were treated to the setting sun and alpenglow tinting the Wrangell Mountains pink during our drive.
Be sure to print out or save the National Parks Service McCarthy Road Guide before you leave. It provides information about the history and geologic features of interest along the road. There is also an audio tour you can listen to while you drive. I highly recommend both of these.
As you drive, keep an eye out for remnants of the old Copper River and Northwestern Railway which was built to carry copper ore from the mine to the port at Cordova.
Kuskulana Bridge
The Kuskulana Bridge was built in 1910 during cold winter months with only 4-5 hours of daylight each day! Guard rails were only added in 1988. Prior to that, rail cars and then automobiles had nothing to stop them from falling to the bottom of the gorge 238 feet below.
Traffic was stopped on our way home for routine bridge maintenance so we had a chance to walk under the bridge and get a closer look at its structure.
It’s comforting to know the bridge is regularly maintained! 
You can walk across the bridge on a small catwalk under the bridge. You just need to climb over this concrete wall to reach it 
The Kuskulana Bridge is the only one on the CRNW that was made of steel girders.
Wrangell-St Elias National Park and Preserve
McCarthy and Kennecott are located within Wrangell-St Elias National Park and Preserve.
Wrangell-St Elias is the largest U.S. National Park but sees a fraction of the visitors of other National Parks due to its remote location. There are only two roads within the park, McCarthy Road and Nabesna Road, which combined cover just over 100 miles! To explore the park, you’ll need to hike, raft, snow shoe, cross country ski, snow machine or fly over it.
And there is a lot to explore! Wrangell-St Elias is home to some of Alaska’s highest peaks, one of the world’s largest volcanoes and the largest glacial system in the U.S.
Where to Stay near McCarthy and Kennicott
We stayed at Base Camp Kennicott, at the end of McCarthy Road and next to the footbridge across the Kennicott River. This campground does not take reservations and has open camping sites with no hookups. You’ll be off the grid out here. There is limited cell service depending on what carrier you have. We have Verizon and had fairly reliable cell service in both McCarthy and Kennecott.
There are other spots to camp along McCarthy Road but I recommend Base Camp Kennicott for the convenience of exploring McCarthy and Kennicott. If you won’t be camping, there are a few places to stay in town but rooms are limited so book early.
McCarthy, Alaska
As the Copper River and Northwestern Railway was being built from 1908 to 1911, a flat spot of land near the Kennicott River was found to be the best place for a locomotive turnaround for the railcars that would be carrying copper ore from Kennecott to Cordova. Since the town of Kennecott was a dry mining town, McCarthy sprang up near the turnaround as the place for miners to let loose. In its heyday, McCarthy boasted 100 buildings including hotels, pool halls, an auto repair shop, a dress shop and other services for almost 1000 people living in the area.
When the mine closed in 1938, McCarthy was quickly deserted. Two subsequent fires destroyed many of the town’s buildings, leaving the town much as you see it today.
You’ll only need a few hours to walk to and explore McCarthy. When you go, keep in mind that many of the residents of McCarthy moved there to live a simple lifestyle and didn’t ask for the growing tourism traffic that the area has seen recently. Enjoy the town and its amenities but be respectful of the private areas around town.
There is a driving bridge for residents, but everyone else must walk across the footbridge. It’s just over half a mile from the footbridge to McCarthy. You can also take the shuttle that runs every half hour between the bridge and town. Check the posting at the bridge for current details.
Footbridge over the Kennicott River 
Kennicott Glacier 
If you look closely, you can see the Kennecott Mine buildings in the distance 
Look for the sign that points the way to the shortcut over Clear Creek
Be sure to make the short walk from the museum to see the locomotive Turntable.
We enjoyed a beer and snack at the Golden Saloon. The patio is a great place to enjoy conversation and live music in the evenings. Next to the Saloon, you’ll find McCarthy Lodge for those who want a bit more upscale dining experience (or at least as upscale as it gets in this part of Alaska!). The Potato is another good choice for a meal. The Lodge provides a free shuttle bus to the footbridge so plan to spend an evening in town even if you are camping across the river.
If you have children with you, and even if you don’t, stop into the McCarthy Center Store and enjoy ice cream on their large patio. You can also get groceries, hardware items and more here.
It didn’t take long to see all of McCarthy, so we spent the rest of the day exploring the other side of the Kennicott River and the lake at the toe of the Kennicott Glacier.
Kennecott Copper Mine
We woke up on Saturday, ready to visit the reason for our trip – the Kennecott Copper Mine. As with McCarthy, no private vehicles are allowed on the road to Kennecott, 5 miles from McCarthy. Bicycles, hiking and the shuttle are the only ways to get there. One shuttle company does allow dogs and both Kennecott and McCarthy are pet friendly. You’ll want to keep your dogs leashed when exploring the mine area. Many areas are littered with debris, some of which is hazardous.
Pictures don’t do this area justice. Standing in front of the 14-story concentration mill built into the side of the hill, surrounded by mountains and glaciers, it is difficult to imagine how this mining town and the railroad were built and operated in such a remote area in the early 1900s.
A Brief History
The Ahtna people who lived in the Wrangell Mountains used copper in their art, tools and arrowheads. The Alaska Gold Rush and rumors of copper in the mountains brought prospectors to the hills near Kennicott Glacier in 1900. The purity of the copper ore found on Bonanza Peak drew the attention of wealthy investors and mining was soon in full swing.
Shipping the ore as it came out of the mines was cost-prohibitive. Since the five mines were high up in the mountains above town, gravity was the answer to efficiently removing the waste rock and concentrating the copper ore. Aerial tramways brought the ore from the mines to the top of the 14-story Concentration Mill.
The ore descended through the mill through a series of crushers and sorters. At the bottom of the hill, the concentrated copper ore was sacked and readied for shipment to the coast.
As the quality of the ore depleted over the years, new methods of extracting the copper were developed including ammonia leaching and flotation. Be sure to watch the film inside the Post Office and General Store to get a good understanding of how the copper ore was processed.
floor of the Concentration Mill
and electricity to other buildings through utilidors which were built under
walkways, keeping them free of snow and ice during the winter
It became apparent that getting the ore from the remote Wrangell Mountains to a seaport would be a greater challenge than the mining itself. Beginning in 1907, tracks were laid over 196 miles, needing 30 miles of bridges and trestles to cross the rugged terrain. Four years, 6000 men and $23 million later, the tracks of the Copper River and Northwestern Railway reached Cordova.
Despite it’s remote location, Kennecott developed into a bustling town with an ice-skating rink, ball fields, hospital, store, school, dental office, and dairy. Bunkhouses and cottages were built for miners and employees with families.
what shopping might have looked like for miners and their families
from family was a big event.
post office. The ruins in front are what
remains of the sawmill, the first building to
be constructed at the site.
Two men shared a room and were charged $1.25 per day for room
and board. Cottages were available for management and their families.
They may not be ghosts but someone is looking at me
from within the Post Office!
Management Office
was located here! Eight cents a day was deducted from employee’s paychecks to
cover their medical costs.
In 1938, as copper prices were dropping, the last of the copper ore was taken from the mines and the town and railroad were quickly shut down. Residents did not have the means to take all of their belongings with them, so much was left behind. Over the years, Kennecott was forgotten except for locals close by.
The National Park Service took over the property in 1998 and deliberated how best to preserve the history of the site and allow visitors to explore safely while respecting the wishes of the local population.
The result is the restoration of some of the buildings, while letting nature have it’s way with others. Buildings have been restored to their original red color. Some sources say the buildings were painted red because paint was made from a by-product of the ore separation, making the paint cheap and accessible.
Where to eat in Kennecott
There are only two places to eat in Kennecott. If you prefer a sit-down, more upscale dining experience, head to the Kennicott Lodge. If you are more of the food truck type, definitely try the Meatza Wagon. Honestly, this was one of the best meals I’ve eaten and you can’t beat the view! After choosing from the surprising menu, specializing in local flair and ingredients, enjoy your meal at a picnic table just feet from the edge of a hill dropping down to the Kennicott Glacier.
Hikes from Kennecott
There are several hikes to enjoy from Kennecott. We took the Top of the Mill trail, a 1.5 mile loop that takes you to the top of the Concentration Mill. Definitely worth the climb to see Kennecott from a different vantage point. The hike to Root Glacier is a 2 mile hike from town. For a longer and more rigorous workout, head up the hill to the Bonanza Mine (4.5 miles) and the Jumbo Mine (5 miles).
Final Thoughts
No words or pictures can fully convey what you will find at McCarthy and Kennecott. If you don’t mind a road trip and being a bit off the grid, you’ll enjoy camping and exploring this area. There are always planes and hotels for those of you who don’t like to stray too far from the comfort of home.
However you get here, and wherever you stay, you’ll leave with respect for the men and women who endured countless hardships to earn a living at the Kennecott Mine and an appreciation for the rugged beauty of Wrangell-St Elias National Park.
Resources
- I recommend printing the McCarthy Road Guide and audio tour before you leave.
- Photographs and a video detailing the building of the Copper River and Northwestern Railway.
- For a detailed history of the mine, visit the Kennecott Mines National Historic Landmark website.
- This short 6-minute film gives a good overview and some gorgeous aerial videography of Kennecott.
- Download this Walking tour of Kennecott which provides a map and details about the mill buildings.
